Take a Peak, Part 2

Monday morning, another monster Full English and we were on our way to one of the country's finest stately homes. You might remember Chatsworth House from such films as: Pride and Prejudice (2005) with Keira Knightley and The Duchess (2007), also with Keira Knightley. She must be well acquainted with the residents, the 12th Duke and Duchess of Devonshire.


We toured the extensive gardens first. Visible from a considerable distance, The Cascade is an incredible water feature commissioned by the First Duke for the usual reason - to impress his guests. Water is stored in a man-made lake high behind the house, and comes down through a pipeline, off the (artificial) waterfall just visible at the back, optionally tumbling down the roof of the Cascade House (it can even be made to come out of the floor and ceiling inside). From there, it descends 24 stone steps of varying height and texture, so that there is a symphony of splashes. The amount of water used would make a Melbournian need a quiet sit-down and a biscuit, so it's rarely turned on. By complete fluke we happened to be present at one of the few times a year when it's given the full monty, Cascade House roof and all, and very impressive it was too. Hot tip to see the Cascade in action - Bank Holiday weekends in May.


The entire area around the house was quite literally knocked into shape by legendary 18th-century landscape architect Lancelot "Capability" Brown, who was employed by the 4th Duke of Devonshire. Brown didn't like the positioning of the nearby village of Edensor, so he had it moved. As one does. Similarly, he had the course of the River Derwent changed to make the views to and from his "park" more agreeable. Here's Johnny doing his best "Mr Darcy waiting for Miss Bennet", with Capability's park stretching out behind.


The 6th Duke of Devonshire was not content with the grand vistas, and engaged another gardening genius, Joseph Paxton, in 1826. Paxton, as far as we can tell, was given a blank cheque and went completely ballistic, not only creating giant fountains, greenhouses, and extraordinary rock gardens, but inventing new machinery in the process. Some of the stones in his rockery weigh several tons, so Paxton created a machine which could pick them up and delicately put them in exactly the right position.


Of Chatsworth's 126 rooms, less than a quarter are visible on the public tour. But it's still an incredible visit, if in that slightly strange "it's really fancy, but I'm not sure I'd actually want to live in it" way. The interior drips with priceless artwork and elaborate furniture, while some of the painted ceilings are Sistine Chapelesque. Our favourites were the library and the dining room - elegant and spacious:

And then, in true Jane Austen fashion, we took our carriage, and withdrew to London.